Thursday, May 24, 2012

Eagles here, there, and everywhere!

About half of the world's 70,000 bald eagles live in Alaska, and we have been spotting quite a few.
One flew out from the shore towards us as the ferry approached the pier in Gustavus.  Landing on the beach he watched us struggle with the unwieldy luggage as we disembarked, as if to say, "doesn't look like nest materials to me."  Of course we are carrying our nest with us in the form of sleeping bags, Thermarest, pillows, tent, stove and food. It is all hidden in dry bags, strapped to dollies.  (For non-boaters, dry bags are heavy plastic bags that roll from the top and are hopefully waterproof to keep your belongings dry in very wet conditions).
 He took off as I approached a little too close.
 Effective legislation to protect the bald eagle resulted in this endangered species being upgraded to "threatened" in 1995.

Sharing a perch with a raven

They mostly eat salmon, which is probably why this raven looks so nonchalant sitting right next to a very large predator.  We did, however, see the carcass of a raven not too far from this tree, torn to pieces so perhaps he has a false sense of security.

Speaking of birds, I picked up an intriguing novel, "Birdy" on the ferry.

 If you travel by ferry, don't bother to tote a bunch of books because people just leave theirs when finished and there is a bookshelf on every ferry from which to choose a book that has been discarded.

 I have only just begun to read it, but as the publisher describes it..." Birdy is an inventive, hypnotic novel about friendship and family, dreaming and surviving, love and war, madness and beauty, and, above all, "birdness." It tells the story of Al, a bold, hot-tempered boy whose goals in life are to life weights and pick up girls, and his strange friend Birdy, the skinny, tongue-tied perhaps genius who only wants to raise canaries and to fly. While fighting in World War II, they find their dreams become all too real—and their lives are changed forever."

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Gardens and Greenhouse

"Pure envy" would describe my feelings about this wonderful property. A green house and a huge garden! We will take a look at the green house first, since in Alaska, the growing season is short and most things need to start there.
Outside the door is this great shallow sink...double duty of a potting sink and a place to clean the wonderful fresh fish that Dave cooks.  The fish carcases go into his compost pile for later feeding of the plants that he grows for his table.
Hardening off a few things before they go into the ground.
The growing side of the greenhouse.  This little chair is far from home.  We saw these everywhere in Belize and loved them.  The green house would be a great place to sit in the winter and dream of spring.
Ready to go into the garden
Every inch is used...notice the hanging plastic plant bags on both sides of the chair on the floor and one on the chair that is hung on the wall.
Flowers and food. The nasturtium flowers will end up in salads.
The working side of the greenhouse.
The workhorse garden cart.
The vegetable garden.
Lettuces we had for dinner last night.


There is a great deal of planting left to do as we are here before their season begins. Tomorrow, I will get my hands dirty as JoAnn has agreed to let me help with that planting. (It is tomorrow now and raining so we are not planting..at least I'm not...this New Mexico girl might melt in the rain.) Years ago I helped one early summer day to plant the gardens at the Yellow Pine Ranch in  Cuchara, Colorado.  They had window boxes at every cabin and purchased the plants from a nursery.  Here the flowering plants have been nurtured from seeds and will share space with the edible plants.

It has been great fun to spend our meals with local residents who love the Gustavus Inn dining experience and who themselves are getting their businesses ready for the hoards of tourists who will arrive in a couple of weeks.  Last night we heard stories of the rowdy early days in Juneau when most folks were just beginning to build their lives in the new-to-them Alaskan frontier and how things have changed in the last fifty years.

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

From Spartan to Splurge-"Where in the World are Heather and Norm"

From sleeping on the deck of a ferry boat, 
Spartan
Splurge
we are now ensconced in the award winning "Gustavus Inn" with a queen sized bed and a twin 

Gustavus Inn
The food is innovative and features foods unique to their location such as Kelp pickles, ginger steamed black cod and rhubarb spread (for some of their wonderful recipes, pick up the current copy of Organic Gardening Magazine where writer, Laurie Constantino features the Gustavus Inn.  Regrettably this article is not on their internet version.  The first night they served halibut baked in a sour cream sauce..
A lovely salad picked that day from their garden...
A melange of garden vegetables very lightly sauteed. (Sorry, I neglected to take a photo because I was serving the halibut as the meals are served family style and I was the closest to the very hot casserole dish.)

Couscous and freshly baked sourdough rolls...
For dessert there was a choice of rhubarb pie with ice cream or Grasshopper pie. No photo of these either as rhubarb is my favorite and I dived right in and ate every bite before remembering the blog!  The Inn was awarded the prestigious James Beard Foundation's 2010 American Classics Award.

The views from all the windows are incredible...


Come back tomorrow and we will take a look at the gardens and greenhouse.

The next day's post will feature the work of both JoAnn Lesh, watercolor artist, (and owner with her husband, Dave Lesh who is the second generation to operate Gustavus Inn with their children, the third generation) and some of the artwork of her teachers, and former artist/guests of the Inn.

Monday, May 21, 2012

Solarium Bedroom

Ever so humble bed chamber for three nights on the "Columbia"
It is difficult and expensive to get a cabin on the ferries, and so we "roughed it" with the young folks...except most of them were not so young after all.
Thrifty dining on the solarium.

We were sleeping with an interesting assortment of folks out here on the covered deck area of the boat.  An older gentlemen from Scotland who was very chatty.  A young woman from Houston in an extremely short leather skirt and jacket (and fortunately heavy stockings to keep her legs warm...otherwise my motherly soul would have been offering her fleece from my own wardrobe!) on her way to look for work in the cool of Alaska.  Many retired couples out exploring.  Lots of young people on the way to summer jobs.  A "giggle" of high school girls, apparently returning from a sports event as they wore matching pants.  Rough looking "working guys." And our good friends and fellow adventurers, Andy and Sylvia.
Andy and Sylvia left the ferry at Petersburg to take an independent week long kayak trip and will rejoin us in Gustavus for the remainder of the trip.


Traveling the inner passage to Gustavus from Bellingham takes three days and a ferry boat change at 3:00 a.m.  It, however, let us see some incredible scenery and "decompress" from the busy lives we lead.  

Lots of reading done.  Lots of visiting with folks from around the world.  Naps during the day as the boat vibration lulls you to sleep.


And some surprising entertaining fly crafting...


Not to insult all my friends who love to fish, but this activity seems the most exciting thing about fishing to me.  Maybe because I haven't EVER CAUGHT A FISH.

Traveling on the Alaskan Inner Passage- "Where in the World are Heather and Norm?"

I have heard folks on board this ferry complain about how slow it is...but my complaint is that the views are changing too rapidly.  No painting possible except from photos.  Here are a few of the "views" from our bedroom on the solarium.  BEDROOM ON THE SOLARIUM?  Sounds a good deal more posh that it is.  More about that later...

Sunday, May 20, 2012

Whales and Flowers and Snow, oh my-"Where in the World are Heather and Norm?

Some of you correctly guessed Seattle.  Here are a few more photos for my New Mexico friends...no salivating allowed!  The blooms above are from a rhododendron, something that doesn't grow in our part of the world.  Each bloom was as large as my head.  Our Seattle friends, Tim and Beth, love to garden.  Here are some snippets of their yard.  In the next post we might see whales, snow, and more flowers.  Can you guess the destination?

Washington lilac (blue) and grasses line the steps to the lower yard.

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Where in the World are Norm and Heather?

Hints:   57 degrees at 10:00 a.m.
            Coffee shops on every block
            
Some photos:
LIGHT RAIL


STREET FLOWERS
FRESHLY CAUGHT
RETAIL SPACE
Some of you already know where we are.  Can the rest of you guess from these hints?